Chef Leah Cohen shares the heartwarming story of how Bobby Flay helped jumpstart her cookbook. She talks about how her parent’s diverse backgrounds influenced her initial food passions and her deep dive into Italian cuisine.
Chef Leah Cohen shares the heartwarming story of how Bobby Flay helped jumpstart her cookbook. She talks about how her parent’s diverse backgrounds influenced her initial food passions and her deep dive into Italian cuisine. Leah talks about what it means to find your authentic path in the culinary world and why she decided to move to Southeast Asia and falling in love with Thai culture and food. She describes the cornerstones of Filipino cuisine, in honor of her mother’s roots, and why she’s hesitant to share Filipino recipes on her social media. Leah explains why she decided to go with a casual concept for her restaurant in the Lower East Side and the music she loves to play there. She talks about working with her husband and business partner and why it works for them. Leah reveals what it was like to be on the finale of Beat Bobby Flay: Holiday Throwdown and what makes the show so much fun to film.
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Find episode transcripts here: https://food-network-obsessed.simplecast.com/episodes/leah-cohen-on-finding-your-culinary-voice-holiday-throwdown-fun
Jaymee Sire (00:03):
Hello, hello and welcome to Food Network Obsessed. This is the podcast where we dish on all things food with your favorite chefs, food influencers, and food network stars. I'm your host, Jaymee Sire, and today we have the chef and owner of the popular Pig and Khao and Piggyback in New York City talking to us about what it means to take a step back and find your true passion. She is a chef restaurateur, cookbook author and television personality, and she's bringing the heat on the season finale of Beat Bobby Flay, holiday Throwdown, it's Leah Cohen. Leah, welcome to the podcast. How are you?
Leah Coen (00:48):
I'm good, how are you?
Jaymee Sire (00:50):
I'm doing great. The last time I saw you, we were eating some amazing Thai food in Queens, so I'm excited to, uh, reconnect here. And speaking of southeastern Asian cuisine, you released a cookbook in 2020 and have said that a well-known food network star supported you in getting that ball rolling. Uh, what's the story there?
Leah Coen (01:10):
Yeah, so, um, Bobby Flay is that well-known, uh, celebrity chef. Um, and he was the one who kind of helped me, uh, guided me through the process. I knew that I wanted to make a cookbook, but I had no idea where to start. And so he took a meeting with me as he does, and he kind of, you know, he said, this is what you need to do, these are some people that I wanna introduce you to and go from there. So he had his longtime assistant, Stephanie Banas. He was like, Stephanie, work with her, make this happen. And then she actually wound up being the co-author of the cookbook.
Jaymee Sire (01:48):
Oh, wow. Yes. That's amazing. Yes. How, how did you and Bobby meet?
Leah Coen (01:53):
You know, I'm not really sure.
Jaymee Sire (02:30):
I have the worst memory too, and I feel like it's gotten worse as I've gotten older. So I feel like that tracks
Leah Coen (02:35):
Yes.
Jaymee Sire (02:36):
Well the title of said cookbook is Lemongrass and Lime, Southeast Asian Cooking at Home, and really a reflection of your own roots and heritage, but your passion was not always focused on, on your mother's side. Can you talk to us a little bit about how your parents, different backgrounds kind of influenced your initial food experiences and interests?
Leah Coen (02:57):
Yeah, so while I, I was never growing up that into Filipino cuisine, we would always go and visit the Philippines. So I kind of like to think that I was training my brain and my palate at a very young age with those flavors. I just didn't know it at the time that I was gonna use it, like in my twenties, thirties and forties. But you know, before, like back in the day, no one was really cooking that food professionally. Mm-hmm.
(03:41):
And um, so yeah. Um, I grew up eating a lot of Jewish food. Um, middle is Middle Eastern European and then I would visit, I actually didn't visit Israel until I was in my thirties. Mm. But I would go and visit like Italy, France a lot, um, growing up. And yeah, I kind of shift gears, I guess I was in my twenties and I was like, why am I cooking Italian food? As much as I love it, I don't have this like really strong connection to it. So I kind of flipped the script and started doing Asian food.
Jaymee Sire (04:13):
Yeah. I mean, a along those lines, I mean, you enrolled in the Culinary Institute and moved to Italy to get some of that experience that you thought your path was kind of headed on Michelin Star experiences and the like. At what point did you decide that like, I love this type of food, but this is not my passion?
Leah Coen (04:31):
I think it was. So after Top Chef, I actually, during Top Chef when I was filming, um, the show I was working for Amber. I was her sous chef at this restaurant called C Vinoteca. And, um, I love the food that we did there. And then when I went on Top Chef I realized I have no identity as a chef, I have no culinary voice, I don't know what food speaks to me and represents me. And it made me really question everything that I was doing. And then when I got back after the show, uh, I, I went back to Cino Teca and had left and I took over as a chef and I was trying to kind of put my own food on the menu and I really felt lost. And I was like, you know what, I'm just gonna like leave New York and move to Asia. And that's kind of what I did.
Jaymee Sire (05:16):
I mean, so you pack up a suitcase, you moved to Southeast Asia. What were you hoping to find and what did you actually find there?
Leah Coen (05:24):
So I originally thought that I wanted to go to Southeast Asia and cook Thai and then learn as much Thai about Thai food as I could and come back and open a Thai restaurant. Um, I didn't realize that you need a visa, um, and your visa can expire
(06:17):
And so that's kind of how, like that journey, because I had no real, um, schedule. I had no real idea plan what I was gonna do. I was just like, let's go see who will hire me for free. Um, so yeah, that's kind of how it started. And then I realized like, hey, maybe I don't wanna focus solely on South, um, on Thai food. I should do Southeast Asian food because there's so much amazing food out there and there's a lot of similarities and of course differences. But the ingredients are, there's a lot of crossover. And I didn't know of anyone who kind of did not fusion, cuz I don't wanna say that Pig and Khao is fusion, but have all these Southeast Asian cuisines under one roof.
Jaymee Sire (06:57):
How long were you there and what made you kind of continue this journey of, of kind of hopping to these different countries as, as the, this journey was unfolding?
Leah Coen (07:08):
I actually didn't wanna come back
Jaymee Sire (08:20):
Leah Coen (08:33):
Yeah, so, um, while I was out there my brother came and visited me twice. Um, and we went to Shanghai and we had Calk for the first time. Mm. And I became obsessed with it,
Jaymee Sire (09:26):
I agree with you on the cow soy. I, I only got to spend, you know, a couple of days in Shanghai when I was in Thailand, but I, I still remember, you know, like I got it from a street vendor and this woman, you know, like, you know, constructing this beautiful bowl of very spicy
Leah Coen (09:47):
So, Kas soy is a Thai noodle dish and usually it's with, uh, braised meat. I like it with chicken, but that you can do it with beef. I mean, you can do it with any type of protein. Um, it's usually on the bone if you do it with chicken. And then the way they serve it is on the, it's, so it's egg noodles that are kind of cooked or boiled, and then you have the curry, the broth, it's really rich, spicy, um, curry. And then on the side they usually give like fermented mustard greens, chopped red onions or shallots, uh, lime juice. And then you have these crispy fried noodles, the same noodles that were boiled or b blanched. And so there's just like so much texture and so much flavor going on. And to me it's like the epitome of what Thai food is. It's balance, it's sweet, it's spicy, it's acidic. I mean, it's just everything that you want to eat or I want to eat. And I just completely fell in love with that dish. And actually that was one of the first dishes I knew that we, we had to put on the menu at Pig and Khao. And it's been 10 years and we have not changed that recipe since day one. So
Jaymee Sire (10:51):
Yeah, I remember I actually ate a pig cow, uh, several years ago and I was so excited to see that on the menu because especially at that time, I don't like, I feel like it's a little bit more common now if you go to Thai restaurants, but it wasn't, I I don't feel like that dish was as well represented over here in the States as as you get when you are not. Yeah. Yeah. And so I,
Leah Coen (11:12):
I like to think that I had, uh, something to do with why so many people have calcium in their menu now,
Jaymee Sire (11:18):
Well, we're gonna give you credit for that for sure. And Sure.
Leah Coen (11:21):
Jaymee Sire (11:21):
Obviously, you know, all of these diverse food experiences played a huge part in opening that restaurant in the lower East side a decade ago. Pig and Khao. How much did you wrestle with which cuisines to highlight and showcase in that restaurant?
Leah Coen (11:36):
For me, I knew I wanted to do Thai food because it still is my favorite cuisine to cook and eat. And, um, of course I come from, my mom comes from the Philippines and I have a strong connection to that. So those are the two most predominant cuisines in pig and Cow. Um, but then it really depends based off of like my travels, if I go to like Vietnam, um, one year for an r and d trip you'll see like a, a lot more Vietnamese dishes on the menu. And then if I go to Malaysia the next year, uh, for r and d then, but you know, the same thing happens. So, but it is, I like to have it be a good mix, but it is predominantly, um, Thai and Filipino
Jaymee Sire (12:17):
An r and d trip. Like what does that entail exactly?
Leah Coen (12:21):
Jaymee Sire (12:36):
Leah Coen (12:37):
And I can go with just my husband to Thailand. So probably like four or five days. But we, before Covid and before kids, my husband who, um, who owns a restaurant with me, we would go for like two and a half to three weeks to either one or two countries in Southeast Asia and we would just immerse ourselves in the culture and just get inspired by like the art, the food, everything. Um, the drinks and yeah. And then we would come back and then it would be like a Vietnamese restaurant for a year.
Jaymee Sire (13:09):
I love that. Um, and and you, you obviously mentioned that, you know, Filipino food is, is such a, a big part of the menu there. Can you kind of talk a a little bit about some of like the cornerstones of that cuisine and, and how it is different from some of the other Southeastern Asian cuisines that you highlight?
Leah Coen (13:27):
Yeah. I think one of the reasons why Thai and Filipino food go so well together under one roof is because Thai is very spicy and very herbaceous and acidic, where Filipino food is more heavy. Um, it is acidic because they do love their vinegar, but it's not spicy. And if it is spicy, it's usually spicy from like a black pepper, uh, not like a chili kind of spicy, it's very meat heavy. Um, Filipinos love their pork, but it's a lot of vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, black pepper bay leaves. I literally just said everything that's in Adobo, um,
Jaymee Sire (14:03):
Leah Coen (14:04):
And, but that's like kind of the food, you know what I mean? It is, it is definitely on the heavier side, which is why, um, I like to compliment it with some lighter options. A
Jaymee Sire (14:13):
And I love that you've been, you know, highlighting so many of those flavors and dishes on your Instagram lately as well. What's different about creating recipes for social media versus the restaurant?
Leah Coen (14:25):
Well, for, for me actually, to be honest, I was always kind of scared to put myself out there and do as much Filipino food on social because I kind of just get shit on
Jaymee Sire (15:41):
Right. That said, I mean the, the restaurant is, is such a fun atmosphere. It's very casual, you know, there's loud hip hop. It's, it's just like a fun place to be and to have dinner. Why was that kind of casual style the right fit for you in this concept?
Leah Coen (15:57):
Well, for me, before I used to do fine dining and I knew that that was not the route that I wanted to go. Um, it's just not who I am. I'm very
Jaymee Sire (16:37):
Leah Coen (16:47):
Yeah, so as I mentioned, my husband and would go on these r and d trips and we would stop sometimes like in Hong Kong or in China, Japan, Korea, all those places. And those are not Southeast Asian countries, but they have amazing, delicious food that I was inspired by when I ate there and visited. So I wanted a place where I could put all of those ideas and that's kind of where Piggyback came from.
Jaymee Sire (17:14):
What's your favorite thing on the menu there?
Leah Coen (17:17):
Oh, I like our lamb rending, which is actually Southeast Asian.
Jaymee Sire (17:23):
You, you still, you still go back to the Southeast Asian
Leah Coen (17:26):
Jaymee Sire (17:27):
Uh, that's amazing. Well, as you've mentioned, you own and operate both of these restaurants with your husband Ben. In fact, you and I first met on the, the set of Iron Chef Showdown and Ben was your sous chef, which was like a fun little wrinkle. Um, to add to that story, how do you guys balance that work relationship with your life outside of the restaurants?
Leah Coen (17:47):
Um, so the only time we ever, ever really fight is about work, which is funny, uh, because you'd think that we would like, probably want to murder each other, uh, cuz we're together all the time and now we have two kids, which kids makes it a lot harder.
Jaymee Sire (18:50):
Leah Coen (19:00):
Oh no, he's not, no, he has nothing to do with the menu. I mean, he, he is really good at like helping me like refine things, but when it, it comes to, um, actually like creating a recipe, he has nothing to do with that
Jaymee Sire (19:39):
It's all right. You need, you need the front of house as as well is very important. Um, I mean, yeah, you are obviously so passionate about what you do. What advice would you give to someone who's really trying to find, you know, that spark and passion in their career?
Leah Coen (19:54):
I mean, I would say, first of all, I know it might be hard, but like, don't care about the money
Jaymee Sire (21:08):
When we come back, Leah tells us about competing on Beat Bobby Flay holiday throwdown and shares what the holidays look like in her home. You've gotten to spend some more time with our friend Bobby, making an appearance on the finale of Beat Bobby. Bobby is this a finale? It is the finale. It's Beat Bobby Flay Holiday Throwdown. Um, obviously we don't want you to give away any spoilers, but can you just share a little bit about that experience?
Leah Coen (21:41):
Yeah. So, um, this is the second time I've competed on Beat Bobby Flay. I am not a big fan of competition
Jaymee Sire (22:44):
Uh, I think it's funny that you, that you hate doing the, the cooking competitions because you do a lot. I mean, you do a decent amount of them, you're also really good at it
Leah Coen (23:02):
Um, you know, it's really weird because I, for whatever reason, I'm like known for Southeast Asian Asian cuisine, but like, I don't cook that food when I feel like my brain just like, kind of just goes blank. And I go, I re revert back to like my 20 year old chef and I'm like, oh, let's cook like Italian food or something like that, which is so weird. I really need to train myself not to do that.
Jaymee Sire (23:28):
You've competed on Be Bobby Flay before, you've also been a judge on the show. Mm-hmm.
Leah Coen (23:37):
Oh my God. He like thrives off of competition. He does. And it's funny because there are people who, you know, you can be as talented and an chef, but you can also be terrible at competition. And he is not terrible at competition. He like really feeds off of it. And, um, and he's just insane. Like the, he is so fast and he is so skilled and it's just like, he's just like a well-oiled machine and he's done it for so long now that like nothing, he's not intimidated by anything. He, you know what I mean? Like, he, he doesn't know how to cook something. He'll like fake it till he makes it, you know what I mean? Like, he just, and he says it's, he's very, he's very confident and I think that's really important when it comes to, um, cook Cook to cooking in competitions. I think that's one of the reasons why I'm not as good as I'd like to be because I lack confidence where that's concern
Jaymee Sire (24:42):
Really is. I mean, people ask all the time, like, is it rigged? Is like, is he really that good? I'm like, yeah, he's really that good. Yeah. It's, it's, it's, it's actually kind of annoying.
Leah Coen (25:15):
I mean, so when I was being coerced into
Jaymee Sire (26:17):
Leah Coen (26:34):
Um, so honestly like last year, my Thanksgiving, I did like a Puerto Rican, um, inspired meal. Um, one of my friends, she, uh, she's actually the host of the Great American recipe and I was like, Hey, I think I wanna do like a Puerto Rican Thanksgiving. So she gave me all her recipes and so we did that. So I kind of like to do themed, uh, themed holidays mm-hmm.
Jaymee Sire (27:29):
Aside from that
Leah Coen (27:55):
I feel like for me, my husband like hates Thanksgiving
Jaymee Sire (28:21):
Leah Coen (28:32):
Jaymee Sire (28:32):
Leah Coen (28:45):
Okay.
Jaymee Sire (28:46):
All right. So rapid fire questions. What was the first thing you ever learned to cook?
Leah Coen (28:51):
Rice
Jaymee Sire (28:52):
Leah Coen (28:55):
But not in a rice cooker. My mom did an old school on a stove top. Mm-hmm.
Jaymee Sire (29:00):
Yeah. Uh, all right. This one's inspired by one of your recent Instagram collaborations. How would you make a dinner for two with just $10?
Leah Coen (29:09):
Oh,
Jaymee Sire (29:50):
Leah Coen (29:51):
Of course, add some vegetables in there. And it's like a W pot dish. And I th I, yeah, I mean, I could definitely feed a family of probably, well, me and my husband eat for four, so yeah.
Jaymee Sire (30:03):
Yeah. What are some pantry staples that you always get at the grocery store?
Leah Coen (30:09):
Uh, garlic. I have to have, I use a lot of garlic, like a lot, a lot of garlic, uh, fish sauce, palm sugar, limes are huge herbs. Any type of herbs. Uh, doesn't have to be Asian herbs, coconut milk, rice,
Jaymee Sire (30:25):
Leah Coen (30:26):
Soy sauce, uh, and chilies.
Jaymee Sire (30:29):
And chilies. Mm-hmm.
Leah Coen (30:33):
I do like H Mart a lot. I also like Hong Kong Supermarket down in Chinatown or, because it has kind of everything I mm-hmm.
Jaymee Sire (30:55):
Leah Coen (31:04):
I love Trader Joe's. The only thing that's annoying about Trader Joe's is like, you can't get everything you need Sure. On like, your grocery list. So it's like you have to, you know that you're going to two stores when Yeah.
Jaymee Sire (31:15):
Leah Coen (31:19):
My air fryer. Is that a tool or is that piece of equipment? Oh,
Jaymee Sire (31:23):
Sure.
Leah Coen (31:23):
Either way. I mean, honestly, I use my, I use my knife, um, all the time. Mm-hmm.
Jaymee Sire (31:30):
I love my air fryer. I love it.
Leah Coen (31:37):
Um, Must tries at the menu and Pig and Khao. cal soy. Mm-hmm.
Jaymee Sire (32:13):
Right. You'll be on the lookout. Um, all right. Most important part of cooking rice is what?
Leah Coen (32:20):
So I'm gonna say what's not the most important. Okay. Okay. That
Jaymee Sire (32:23):
Works too. That works too.
Leah Coen (32:25):
Jaymee Sire (32:34):
Leah Coen (32:35):
My mom thinks I'm gross for it, and I don't care. I like the starch and I don't, don't think it makes a difference. I mean, okay. I actually think that it makes, when I, my rice comes out perfect when I don't rinse it. Okay. When I rinse it. And if I'm being like, fast and lazy and I don't completely drain all of the excess water, it gets a, it's a little soggy. Hmm. Um, and yeah, I have not been rinsing my rice for years now,
Jaymee Sire (33:05):
I'm gonna try that next time to make Rice
Leah Coen (33:14):
Uh, when I can get through the day being a mom and also going to work and not being in a bad mood.
Jaymee Sire (33:21):
Leah Coen (33:52):
Say, do calories count? No, absolutely not. Calories don't count.
Jaymee Sire (34:02):
Of course.
Leah Coen (34:03):
Okay. Um, are we
Jaymee Sire (34:04):
Going Thailand for this breakfast?
Leah Coen (34:06):
Uh, yes we are. Um, so when I was living in Thailand, uh, at that flat, there was this street stall, um, that was right down the road for me. And they had, uh, a noodle soup that I would eat probably four times a week, um, for breakfast. And it, it's called tum yum. Noodle Soup. Butt yu is different than what everyone thinks. Tum only really means that it has to have like, like it has to be like acidic, salty, um, and it is so, it, it's not like the traditional tum yum. With like the tomatoes. Mm-hmm.
Jaymee Sire (35:27):
Wow. Yeah. That sounds amazing.
Leah Coen (35:29):
And I love eating it when it's like 95 degrees and you're just sweating
Jaymee Sire (35:32):
Leah Coen (35:36):
Jaymee Sire (35:37):
All right. What's for, what's for lunch?
Leah Coen (35:39):
Huh? Okay, lunch.
Leah Coen (35:43):
What is for lunch?
Leah Coen (35:48):
Trying to think. Like, I don't want everything to be tied, even though it's like pretty much should be. No, my dinner won't be Thai. Um, okay. So there is this place in Thailand, or in Bangkok called Soy, if you might have seen it on Andrew, one of Andrew Zimmer's show. Mm-hmm. Um, I actually found out about it through him. Um, and it's kind of like 30 minutes on the outskirts of Bangkok. Um, and it is just, they have the best, uh, YOKA do, which is a fried egg salad. It's not really a salad, but
Jaymee Sire (36:48):
Wow. I think my stomach, stomach just growled. I'm not sure if you've heard it.
Leah Coen (36:54):
Dinner and dessert. I'm gonna bring it back to my childhood. Uh, so every year for my birthday, I would eat at this pizza place in, um, in Westchester. Okay. It's called Johnny's Pizzeria. In Mount Vernon. The bar stool guy gave it like a 9.3. Oh wow. Um, so it was, it is really good and I am obsessed with it. And I've been, I mean, pizza is literally my favorite thing to eat.
Jaymee Sire (37:25):
It's so
Leah Coen (37:25):
Great. Love pizza. Yeah. Yeah.
Jaymee Sire (37:35):
What flavor?
Leah Coen (37:37):
I love coffee ice cream. Okay. Yeah. I'm very like, I don't know if that's basic or not, but that is like, that's been my favorite ice cream flavor since I was probably like seven years old. And that's what I do for my birthday. Every year I get a ha ANDAs ice cream cake, and I eat pizza
Jaymee Sire (37:58):
I mean, that sounds like a pretty amazing birthday tradition. Um, I'll definitely have to check that out next time I'm in, uh, west Chester, thank you so much for taking the time and chatting. It was so great catching up with you. We'll have to to go to Zap Zap again, uh, sometime soon. They have one in Williamsburg now, so we can go there. Oh, they do? Yeah. Like a seafood one, so, oh,
Leah Coen (38:18):
Yes.
Jaymee Sire (38:18):
Yeah, let's go there. All
Leah Coen (38:20):
Okay. For sure.
Jaymee Sire (38:21):
All right. That's a date.
Leah Coen (38:24):
Thank you.
Jaymee Sire (38:30):
I am loving these holiday editions of Beat Bobby Flay and cannot wait to watch Leah on the finale, only on Food Network, December 13th at 9:00 PM Eastern. Make sure to follow us wherever you listen to podcasts so you don't miss a thing. And if you enjoyed today's episode, please rate and review. We love it when you do that. That's all for now. We'll catch you foodies next Friday.